Kosovo Mitrovica

A one hour drive with an old blue Volkswagen minibus will bring us from Pristina to Kosovo Mitrovica. When we just leave the capital we directly experience a totally differed world. KFOR jeeps, military bases, old checkpoints and a lot of burned out houses. The man next to us explains that in these houses Serbians used to life, but after the Kosovo-war they had to leave and the ethnic Albanians destroyed them.

Just before half past five we arrive in Kosovo Mitrovica, a city dived by the river Ibar into a large Albanian and a small Serbian part. In the center there is a bridge secured 24/7 by soldiers and police. On this bridge there was a big ethnic clash in March 2004. To walk here is a really strange feeling. Especially if you realize that people on this place were shot by snipers and according to the rumors that the secret service is photographing anyone that passes.

At the Serbian side we meet Alexander and Milos, they will help us get around the northern part of the city. We have a drink at our hotel and discuss the situation here. We’ll, it is not really a discussion, because that is impossible on the Balkans: everyone knows their truth.

When you talk to Serbians, even moderate people like Alexander and Milos, you feel their hate and fear against the Albanians. The Kosovo Liberation Army (KLA/UÇK) is referred to as “the terrorists”. But for the Albanian people they are freedom fighters and big heroes. In Pristina you can find a meters high portrait of the big leader on the wall of the sports center, just in front of the UN headquarter. Heroes or terrorists? What is the truth? Don’t ask me!

Later that night we watch Germany versus Portugal on a big screen. This could be any city in the world. A lot of you people, drinking a beer, watching the game and talk. But the image changes when some Belgium soldiers enter the terrace. Not for the local people, they are used to it. But for me it’s strange to see heavily equipped soldiers with M16s around their neck.

The next day we meet Thabo, a Dutch guy working for ATA. We have a coffee, and talk about Mitrovica, the problems with KFOR, UNMIK, Pristina or UNMIKistan, trust of people and so on. On the street France KFOR troops walk by, but we are getting used to this.

Branca, a colleague of Thabo and English student, wants to show us the city and village that she lives. The four of us take of and walk to the new church on top of the hill. “UNMIK did not want this church”, Thabo explains. “They wanted to Serbians to go to the one in south.” But this is a totally unrealistic. People get beaten up and killed when they go to the other part.

From the church we take a 3 kilometer walk thru the hills to a village next to Mitrovica. On our way we find a lot of abandoned houses, put on fire and destroyed by Serbians after the war. It is a really sad view, but this is in big contrast with reality. The places people live are full of life. Gardens full of flowers, children playing on the street and just having a normal live. “You should make a picture of this”, Thabo says. He is really upset with internationals showing burned out houses and saying that these people are so sad.

The burned out houses cannot be destroyed. They are still property of Albanians or Serbs, depending on witch part you are. Also it is really hard to buy some properties from the other party, as UNMIK doesn’t want this. They still believe that the people should return to their old houses.